Need an upgraded or smaller switch for your amp or device? Saturnworks amp/device switches are compact and high quality, for amps or other devices requiring basic on/off switching.
Please note: if you don’t see what you’re looking for here, please check out our tap tempo pedal page. There you will find a large selection of momentary (aka unlatching) switches.
Single switches come in both latching and momentary versions. Latching single switches come in LED variations, with either an internally or externally powered LED. Please see the note on LEDs below.
The single latching switch replaces the Marshall P801, the Boss FS-5L, the JHS Red Remote, or any other amp or device footswitch that requires a simple latching TS (mono) on/off (open/grounded) footswitch.
The single momentary switch replaces the Boss FS-5U–or any other amp or device switch that requires a single momentary TS (mono) on/off (open/grounded) footswitch. Momentary switches come as either normally open or normally closed. Boss/Roland applications use normally closed, while most other devices use normally open.
Saturnworks double switches come in both latching and momentary variations. Our latching versions have options for internally or externally powered LEDs (see note on LEDs below).
The double switch can replace the Boss FS-6 and FS-7. You just need to determine if your application requires latching or momentary switches, and if momentary, if the switches need to be normally open or normally closed. Boss and Roland applications require normally closed switches, while most other brands use normally open.
The momentary double switches come in both normally open and normally closed variations, with either pro or soft touch switches. Double switches also come in TRS or two TS variations.
If you need a TRS (stereo) cable to connect a double-switch to your device, we have them here.
Double Double Switches
Double double switches have two separate double switches in one enclosure. So two pairs of momentary switches connected to two TRS jacks.
Saturnworks amp/device switches use boutique-grade components including:
- Top quality footswitches.
- Heavy duty Neutrik jacks–or premium Switchcraft jacks on the black versions.
- Compact and sturdy cast-aluminum enclosures. The 3.5″ x 1.5″ 1590A enclosures used by Saturnworks double switches are 1/5 the size of the common Boss FS-6 double controller.
- Passive circuitry does not need power to function – the LED versions need power only to light up the LED.
- Handcrafted and bench-tested in California, USA.
- A one-year warranty against manufacturing defects.
Notes on compatibility
Saturnworks switches are compatible with a variety of amps and devices. However, it is up to you to determine whether the switch will work with your amp or device before ordering. There have been many thousands of amp and switch combos on the market over the past 70+ years. We don’t have a comprehensive list of amps or devices compatible with Saturnworks switches. Some devices use basic/standard switch configurations, while others use specialized setups with extra components such as diodes, resistors, etc.
To determine compatibility please consult your amp’s owners manual or contact the manufacturer and inquire whether a basic open/closed latching or momentary footswitches will work with your amp or device.
Compatibility with Boss/Roland
Looking to replace a switch for a Boss or Roland device? You’ll need to determine whether your application requires momentary or latching switches. Check your Boss owner’s manual. If your device calls for the FS-5U, then you need a momentary (aka unlatching) switch. If your device calls for the FS-5L, then you need a latching switch.
For devices compatible with the FS-6, you will need to determine whether your application calls for the FS-6 to be set to unlatching (momentary) or latching mode. Then select the appropriate Saturnworks product variation. Please note: unlike the FS-6, Satunworks pedals use mechanical switches that cannot be changed from latching to unlatching (momentary).
All Boss/Roland momentary switch applications are normally closed.
TRS to single switch compatibility
Customer occasionally try to use a single TS switch with an amp or device designed to work with a 2-button TRS configuration. If what you’re trying to switch is on the tip of the TRS connection then it will work. But if what you’re trying to switch is on the ring, a single TS switch won’t work. In that case, the ring will always be grounded, regardless of the switch position. If you’re trying to use a single switch to activate only what is on the ring of a TRS setup, the pedal will need to be specially built with a TRS jack and the switch installed only on the ring. You will also need to connect it with a TRS cable. That special configuration is available by request. Please contact us for more information.
Notes on LEDs
The switches with internally powered LEDs rely on power coming from the amp itself to light up the LED. Versions with externally powered LEDs use a standard DC 2.1mm center-negative DC jack for LED power.
Please note: There are two ways to wire LEDs on external controllers, in parallel or serially to the lead current. Most amps that provide power for external control switches work with the LEDs wired in parallel. However, some amps’ switches may not work properly with a parallel LED setup (Mesa Boogie seems to be one, and there may be others). By default, we wire the internally powered LED switches with the LEDs in parallel, but we can wire them serially by request. If you’re not sure if your external control switch needs to be serial or parallel, you may need to contact the amp/device manufacturer for more details.
This is the schematic for our latching switch with an internally powered LED (with the LED wired in parallel), in case you need to run it by a manufacturer.
Many devices light up the LED when the circuit is open. Other devices light up the LED when the circuit is closed (grounded). The Saturnworks latching switches with externally powered LEDs feature LED polarity toggles, which cover either configuration.
To get a sense of how the LED polarity toggle works, check out this video that a customer made, using his polarity toggle switch to fix a common ‘problem’ with Orange amps–that the LED lights up when the effect is OFF.
As you can see, there can be a lot of variables with external control switches. If you’re not sure if your amp provides power for the LEDs, the LED polarity relative to the lead current, or if the LEDs should be wired serially or in parallel to the lead current, it is best to go with the externally powered version with polarity toggles. An externally powered LED version covers you for most latching switch/LED configurations. The external version keeps the lead current and LED current separate and you can set the LEDs to work how you want them to.